When you are an all grain brewer, besides trying to make tasty beer, you are also judged on how well you convert starches to sugars. This is know as your brewhouse efficiency. According to Brad Smith over at BeerSmith, "Brewhouse efficiency is defined as the percent of potential grain sugars that are converted into sugar in the wort." I'm not going to reinvent the wheel by writing about efficiency but if you want to learn more about it, here are some resources.
BeerSmith
How to Brew
I've historically averaged around 65% efficiency by batch sparging. There have been some batches I've been in closer to 70% and some in the upper 50%.....yes, all over the place! I've been closer to 55%-60% my last few batches and I was starting to talk to some fellow brewers about it. They were also seeing some lower efficiencies and we found the common link was where we got our grains. It appeared that our local homebrew shop was just not giving a good crush (note: last time I was there I looked at the gap on their mill and I think I could fit my wife's mini van through it!). So with post Christmas money/gift cards I decided to buy a mill.
I opted to go with the Monster Mill MM3. Really nice mill. I'd highly recommend it. On the maiden grind before my last brew I ground 1 lb of my grain bill to see how it worked. And right away I noticed how much finer the crush was compared to what I was getting from the store. I have my mill set at 0.045" gap.
I ground the rest of the grain and I went through my mash process as usual. At the end of the brew day I calculated my efficiency and it was up to 70%. This is the best mash I've had in a while. Yes, it was only 1 test so far and I know 70% isn't wonderful but its a step in the right direction. I'm very hopefully that I can be more consistent now that I'm grinding my own grains. I plan to do a few more batches at the current gap setting and then start to mess with it to see how it impacts my efficiency.
Saturday, January 19, 2013
Sunday, January 6, 2013
Not so Robust, but Pretty Brown.
A few weeks ago I posted about a Porter I brewed. I think the beer came out well and folks who've tried it have enjoyed it. But its not as robust as I expected based on a previously batch. The first time I made this beer it was pretty roasty and even borderline stoutish. As it aged the roastiness faded some and it became a truer robust porter. A nice beer overall.
To compensate for some of that roastiness this last batch, I decided to add the roasted grains toward the end of my mash to extract the color but maybe not as much roastiness. Mission accomplished. However, I don't believe I have a robust porter anymore.
I plan to enter this beer in my club's next competition . To see if it fit the Robust Porter category, I did a side by side comparision with Smuttynose's Robust Porter. Right off the bat, I can smell that the Smuttynose was much roastier. The head was also much tanner even though the color of the beer was near identiccal. To the BJCP guidelines I went.
On reading the Robust Porter guidelines it was clear to me I should not enter this beer as a Robust Porter. The Brown Porter guidelines though seemed very close. In reading the Comments section of the Brown Porter, it actually highlighted the differences I was seeing in the two beers side by side.
I've learned two very important things from this batch of beer.
I know if I entered this beer as a robust porter I'd get dinged for not being roasty enough. So as a competition tip, enter your beer in the category the finished beer as, not in the style you may have intended to brew. Some categories have fine line.
To compensate for some of that roastiness this last batch, I decided to add the roasted grains toward the end of my mash to extract the color but maybe not as much roastiness. Mission accomplished. However, I don't believe I have a robust porter anymore.
I plan to enter this beer in my club's next competition . To see if it fit the Robust Porter category, I did a side by side comparision with Smuttynose's Robust Porter. Right off the bat, I can smell that the Smuttynose was much roastier. The head was also much tanner even though the color of the beer was near identiccal. To the BJCP guidelines I went.
On reading the Robust Porter guidelines it was clear to me I should not enter this beer as a Robust Porter. The Brown Porter guidelines though seemed very close. In reading the Comments section of the Brown Porter, it actually highlighted the differences I was seeing in the two beers side by side.
I've learned two very important things from this batch of beer.
- Minor tweeks in your mash schedule can have signficant impacts especially when using dark grains.
- If entering a competition, be sure to enter a beer into the category of the style the beer finished as, not as the style it was intended .
I know if I entered this beer as a robust porter I'd get dinged for not being roasty enough. So as a competition tip, enter your beer in the category the finished beer as, not in the style you may have intended to brew. Some categories have fine line.
Friday, December 14, 2012
StarSan - Sanitizer and Leak Finder
I'm not sure if its bad luck, carelessness or a combination of both that has
caused issues with CO2 the last couple years. I’ve had issues with a keg lid, o-rings
and a hairline fracture in a regulator that all lead to leaks in my kegging system.
Those I don’t believe I did anything wrong. However, not fully tightening the
gas socket on the keg was my fault.
I went to check on my 10 lbs CO2 tank today since I just filled those Porter kegs and to my disappointment it was empty. I filled it just 2 months ago so I know something was wrong. Now it became a game of find the leak. This is where StarSan comes in!
Because of how easily StarSan foams up, it’s the perfect medium for looking for leaks because it bubbles like crazy. So I carefully went through each connection on my system looking for leaks. Nothing after 3 kegs. Finally I got to the gas socket on the 4th keg and it started to bubble. I tightened it up and the bubbles stopped. Problem solved. This does teach me to check all of my connections one last time after filling a new keg.
I learned a trick today when I talked to the guy at the CO2 place about my leak. He said, turn on the CO2 tank, lets it fill the entire system and balance out and then turn off the gas at the CO2 tank. If there is a leak, you’ll see the pressure slowly start to drop on the regulator since you are not forcing in any more pressure from the tank. If there is no leak, it should hold pressure in the regulator.
So I hope I go downstairs later or tomorrow and still find that everything is still OK.
I went to check on my 10 lbs CO2 tank today since I just filled those Porter kegs and to my disappointment it was empty. I filled it just 2 months ago so I know something was wrong. Now it became a game of find the leak. This is where StarSan comes in!
Because of how easily StarSan foams up, it’s the perfect medium for looking for leaks because it bubbles like crazy. So I carefully went through each connection on my system looking for leaks. Nothing after 3 kegs. Finally I got to the gas socket on the 4th keg and it started to bubble. I tightened it up and the bubbles stopped. Problem solved. This does teach me to check all of my connections one last time after filling a new keg.
I learned a trick today when I talked to the guy at the CO2 place about my leak. He said, turn on the CO2 tank, lets it fill the entire system and balance out and then turn off the gas at the CO2 tank. If there is a leak, you’ll see the pressure slowly start to drop on the regulator since you are not forcing in any more pressure from the tank. If there is no leak, it should hold pressure in the regulator.
So I hope I go downstairs later or tomorrow and still find that everything is still OK.
Wednesday, December 12, 2012
Vanilla Porter
I'm a rather conservative brewer. Because of the amount of time it takes to
go from grain to glass, I typically avoid putting "non-grain" flavors
into my beers with fear of overdoing it. I decided with this last batch to step
out of my comfort zone a little. I like having my Robust Porter around for winter.
One of my wife's favorite beers is Breckenridge's Vanilla Porter. So I figured,
maybe do a split batch and try putting a fresh vanilla bean in. If I screw it up, its just half a batch. I wasn't
going for a clone, but hoping for a smooth vanilla tasting/smelling porter.
I did some research and a lot of what I read said that you should use 1 whole vanilla bean for every 5 gallons of beer. The impression I get is that a little bit bean goes a long way. Since I was going to split the batch, I only needed half a bean. Too bad they don't sell half beans as it cost me $6 for one bean at Whole Foods!
For those that have never seen one, here is what a vanilla bean looks like. Sort of like a brown, shriveled up string bean.
What you want to do is expose as much of the inside of the bean to the beer. That is where all the good stuff is. I cut the bean lengthwise and scrapped out all the contents. It wasn’t what I expected. The inside of the bean is like the consistency of a very fine coffee ground. I cut up the pod too into small pieces to again allow as much of the inside of the pod make contact with the beer.
I dumped the entire bean and it insides into a Better Bottle. I then racked half of the porter right on top. Figured by putting the bean in first that it would help mix it up fully as it racked.
As early as the next day, there was a nice vanilla aroma coming off the beer. I can see how you can easily overdue it though! The plan was to have the beer in contact with the bean for at least 10 days.
I just racked the beer to kegs yesterday so I have yet to taste a fully finished product. But there is a nice, clear vanilla aroma and a slight vanilla in the finish. So far, so good. I’m very interested to see if the flavors changes at all once it is carbed up like does the CO2 enhance or suppress the vanilla.
For those that want the recipe, is pretty much Jamil’s….
10 lb American 2-Row (74.07%)
1.25 lb Crystal 40 (9.26%)
1.25 lb Munich I (9.26%)
0.75 lb Chocolate (5.56%)
0.25 lb Black Patent (1.85%)
1 oz East Kent Golding Pellet @ 60 Minutes
0.5 oz East Kent Golding Pellet @ 10 Minutes
0.5 oz East Kent Golding Pellet @ 5 Minutes
Vanilla bean added after beer was fully fermented and left it in for 10 days.
I did some research and a lot of what I read said that you should use 1 whole vanilla bean for every 5 gallons of beer. The impression I get is that a little bit bean goes a long way. Since I was going to split the batch, I only needed half a bean. Too bad they don't sell half beans as it cost me $6 for one bean at Whole Foods!
For those that have never seen one, here is what a vanilla bean looks like. Sort of like a brown, shriveled up string bean.
What you want to do is expose as much of the inside of the bean to the beer. That is where all the good stuff is. I cut the bean lengthwise and scrapped out all the contents. It wasn’t what I expected. The inside of the bean is like the consistency of a very fine coffee ground. I cut up the pod too into small pieces to again allow as much of the inside of the pod make contact with the beer.
I dumped the entire bean and it insides into a Better Bottle. I then racked half of the porter right on top. Figured by putting the bean in first that it would help mix it up fully as it racked.
As early as the next day, there was a nice vanilla aroma coming off the beer. I can see how you can easily overdue it though! The plan was to have the beer in contact with the bean for at least 10 days.
I just racked the beer to kegs yesterday so I have yet to taste a fully finished product. But there is a nice, clear vanilla aroma and a slight vanilla in the finish. So far, so good. I’m very interested to see if the flavors changes at all once it is carbed up like does the CO2 enhance or suppress the vanilla.
For those that want the recipe, is pretty much Jamil’s….
10 lb American 2-Row (74.07%)
1.25 lb Crystal 40 (9.26%)
1.25 lb Munich I (9.26%)
0.75 lb Chocolate (5.56%)
0.25 lb Black Patent (1.85%)
1 oz East Kent Golding Pellet @ 60 Minutes
0.5 oz East Kent Golding Pellet @ 10 Minutes
0.5 oz East Kent Golding Pellet @ 5 Minutes
Vanilla bean added after beer was fully fermented and left it in for 10 days.
Sunday, December 9, 2012
Drink Local - Support Craft Beer "Sellers"
Though I love everything about homebrewing, I admit that compared to some of
you, I've been less passionate about the craft beer scene. I don't check-in
every beer on Untappd or drop everything to
go try the newest "must have" beer on tap. I do however admire craft
brewers that make that leap from homebrewing to pro-brewing.
I've recently decided that I'm going to start writing a business plan for a brewery. Part of my 10 year plan? Perhaps, or maybe just the daydreams of a guy that loves to brew. I truly don't know. Writing down every detail into a structured format as it comes to me is a discipline that will help me in other aspects of my career (I shared a document I wrote with my group’s VP about how the retail energy business is similar to the craft beer industry and he loved it!).
As I started my business plan research, it gave me a new appreciation for the professional craft brewer, or really what they are -- craft beer sellers. They are not in the business of making beer; they are in the business of selling beer. Anyone can learn to make beer, but not everyone will be fortunate enough to successfully sell it.
I also now appreciate the phrase "Drink Local.” I see people post it on Twitter and I never really gave it much thought. But when you think about what it means, it’s incredibly important. It goes beyond trying the new local beer just to try it; it’s about supporting local/regional business over the long-term. Every time you buy a pint/bottle of something local, you play a role in giving that brewery the chance to brew (or actually sell) another day. No different than supporting a "mom-and-pop" restaurant vs. a nationwide chain.
As quickly as craft brewers are popping up around the country, there is the unfortunate reality that many of them will fail. And likely, they didn’t fail at brewing beer, they failed at selling beer.
This awareness now changes how I will drink craft beer. When I have the opportunity to go out, or when I travel, I make every attempt to purchase at least one local/regional beer. It is very easy to play my part in supporting the local craft beer seller.
If you have friends that are scared to drink anything that doesn't say Bud, Miller or Coors on it, buy them a local craft beer to try. I have successfully changed minds of people and maybe you can too. By doing this, you not only open their mind to a whole new world of beer, but you also support local businesses.
There are tons of ways to find local breweries. I've found PubQuest and Craftbeer.com to be pretty helpful when travelling.
If you happen to be in Cincinnati, here's a list** of local breweries to support:
Blank Slate Brewing
Rivertown Brewing
Mt Carmel Brewing
Triple Digit Brewing
50 West Brewing
Great Crescent Brewery
Christain Moerlein
**I hope I didn't forget anyone! Let me know if I need to add any!
I've recently decided that I'm going to start writing a business plan for a brewery. Part of my 10 year plan? Perhaps, or maybe just the daydreams of a guy that loves to brew. I truly don't know. Writing down every detail into a structured format as it comes to me is a discipline that will help me in other aspects of my career (I shared a document I wrote with my group’s VP about how the retail energy business is similar to the craft beer industry and he loved it!).
As I started my business plan research, it gave me a new appreciation for the professional craft brewer, or really what they are -- craft beer sellers. They are not in the business of making beer; they are in the business of selling beer. Anyone can learn to make beer, but not everyone will be fortunate enough to successfully sell it.
I also now appreciate the phrase "Drink Local.” I see people post it on Twitter and I never really gave it much thought. But when you think about what it means, it’s incredibly important. It goes beyond trying the new local beer just to try it; it’s about supporting local/regional business over the long-term. Every time you buy a pint/bottle of something local, you play a role in giving that brewery the chance to brew (or actually sell) another day. No different than supporting a "mom-and-pop" restaurant vs. a nationwide chain.
As quickly as craft brewers are popping up around the country, there is the unfortunate reality that many of them will fail. And likely, they didn’t fail at brewing beer, they failed at selling beer.
This awareness now changes how I will drink craft beer. When I have the opportunity to go out, or when I travel, I make every attempt to purchase at least one local/regional beer. It is very easy to play my part in supporting the local craft beer seller.
If you have friends that are scared to drink anything that doesn't say Bud, Miller or Coors on it, buy them a local craft beer to try. I have successfully changed minds of people and maybe you can too. By doing this, you not only open their mind to a whole new world of beer, but you also support local businesses.
There are tons of ways to find local breweries. I've found PubQuest and Craftbeer.com to be pretty helpful when travelling.
If you happen to be in Cincinnati, here's a list** of local breweries to support:
Blank Slate Brewing
Rivertown Brewing
Mt Carmel Brewing
Triple Digit Brewing
50 West Brewing
Great Crescent Brewery
Christain Moerlein
**I hope I didn't forget anyone! Let me know if I need to add any!
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