Carboys, Why?

I used a carboy for the first time today. A co-worker gave me a 5 gallon one a while back but I never used it. I like the ease of buckets and using the carboy today confirmed that. The carboy is being used to secondary a cider that I plan to age for a few months before kegging. To clean it was a pain in the butt. The previous owner left some stuff behind so I had to rig up a wash cloth on the end of a bottle brush to try to scrape it out. Wasn't that easy. Also, I was also terrified of dropping it when it was covered with soap.

The work it took the clean and the fear of scattering glass seems not worth using a carboy for a normal 2-3 week fermentations. During that time you will have no issues just using a plastic bucket. They are so much easier to clean and no fear of breakage. I can see using carboys for longer-term storage as I am with this cider, but unless I'm in a pitch for space (which usually isn't an issue), I don't ever plan to use a carboy. I know some people may give me crap about that, but hey, that's just my opinion.

Air in your beer lines?

Though I don't have the collar on or the shanks installed yet, I have a chest freezer stocked with 3 kegs right now. They are all connected via picnic taps.

With the newest keg that I put in, it poured mainly foam and there was a ton of air pockets in the beer line (clear so I can see them).  I know many first think "you need to balance your system". I'd agree with that if it wasn't for the fact that the other two kegs work just fine. The air pockets in the line really is what confused me too. If the system was unbalanced, it shouldn't foam up until you pour and the resistance kicks in and not leave air pockets in the beer line.

I posted a question on the Northern Brewer forum (my go to forum) and someone gave me a suggestion to check my o-rings. I took the keg apart and I was missing o-rings between my dip tubes, both gas and beer lines, and the keg. It had been a while since I used this keg and I remember after the last batch in this keg I pitched the o-rings because they were worn out but never replaced them.

I had some extra o-rings laying around, replaced them and BINGO we have a good pour.

So the next time you have foam in your beer lines and you know your system is balanced, the o-rings may be worn/damaged or in my case, just fully missing.

First Try at Cider

A friend of mine has a huge apple press every year on his farm. The makes a big deal out of it with a family-friendly party. Everyone helps out washing apples, carrying them to the homemade press (this huge hydraulic press) and bottling. I suggested to him that we should turn some of it into hard cider and he was more than excited to offer up 5 gallons.

So right now I have 5 gallons starting to ferment. I decided to go with Nottingham yeast (my LHBS didn't have US-05) for my first shot at this. If I'm successful then I'll likely go with a cider yeast next year and likely make more than 1 batch.

My first step was to get all of the cider into my bucket and I put in 5 campden tablets (1 tablet per gallon of juice). The potassium in the campden tablet will help to stop any natural yeast/molds/fungus in the apples from eating on the sugars. With putting those in however, you need to give it time to dissipate out. They say at least 24 hours. Due to timing constraints, I let it go 48 hours.

It did take some time to see some active fermentation and even now, 3 days since pitching, the fermentation is still VERY slow. I can see some krausen starting to form on the surface but it seems much slower than beer. I was expecting this but was hoping it didn't take this long. Lots of people on the forums mention a delayed start to fermentation. I'll just keep watching it for the next few days and maybe take a reading (OG 1.051) to make sure it is actually fermenting.

After around 2 week I'll plan to transfer the cider to a carboy and add some pectic enzyme to help clear out the cider. I'll then let it sit for around 4 to 6 months before kegging.

So now its just a waiting came on this. I'm very excited to see how this turns out over the winter/spring.

I'll post some updates during the process.

So Important to Keep Track of Your Brew Day Stats

I'm a number's guy. From the time I was a kid I always loved organization and keeping statistics. I'm not talking like hardcore college level crazy stats that drive you mad, just basic stuff like keeping the baseball stats of all of my friends when we played in the street or keeping a list of my baseball cards. Yeah, I know kind of weird, lame, nuts and maybe even a little scary.

Now that I'm a brewer, keeping my brewing stats has become a bit of an obsession. I'm slowly building out the tabs on my spreadsheets with new calculations. I've really only been keeping good stats for the last 4 batches or so (I'm 14 batches into the hobby). Batch 8 was my first AG batch and my first few AG batches I was so focused on process that I didn't really care if I hit my numbers. I just wanted to not screw it up and make drinkable beer. Now that I feel comfortable with my equipment and process I'm really trying to do a better job about keeping good stats so I can learn from each batch and include that knowledge in the next batch.

My last two batches I've come up a little short of 5 gallons for the fermenter. I see now, its due to trub loss. I choose not to put all of the "junk" into the fermenter just to make volume. I account for trub loss when I calculate what I need for pre-boil volume. But the trub lost from this last batch was higher than the trub loss from the previous batch. I also used an ounce and a quarter more of hops, so I'm going to watch this situation to see if the amount of hops I put into the boil dictates how much trub loss to anticipate. It won't be perfect, but it should be better.

To get better volume estimates in my kettle (aluminum 7 gallon pot with no marks), I bought stainless steel BBQ skewers from Lowes. They are 24" long, cost like $5 for 4 of them and fit perfectly into my kettle. I just measured out the volume and marked them with a permanent marker. I used to us a wood stick, but I found I was missing volumes and I think it was because the wood would expand as it absorbed some liquid.

I'm also finding my efficiency is coming up lower than I'd hope for. So I need to adjust for that and see if I can improve there.

Again, I wouldn't know if I could improve my process and quality of product if it wasn't for keeping good brew day stats. For those of you that don't care, that's fine. Just wing it an enjoy like you are doing. For you folks that are very process oriented like me and want to know why you may or may not be hitting your numbers (OG, volumes, etc), I urge you to keep better track of your stats and learn from it.

CMI Oktobersbest 2011

Last night was my first CMI Oktobersbest Competition. I entered 3 beers (Cream Ale, APA & Milk Stout) and unfortunately I didn't place with any of them. I'd be lying if I said I wasn't disappointed after coming off my first place Amber Ale at Dayton DRAFT's BrewFest. However, the real reason I enter is to get feedback. And so far that feedback has paid off. I've entered that Cream Ale into two competition now and my score increased from 29 to 35. I'll keep working that recipe until I either win something or my score doesn't improve.

The highlights of the evening were the special guests. Three time Ninkaski winner and author Gordon Strong stopped by to judge the competition as well as hang out for the award ceremony. I wish I would brought my copy of "Brewing Better Beer" for him to sign.

(Gordon Strong - center)

Besides Gordon Strong, Greg Koch, CEO of Stone Brewing company was in town on this book signing tour and stopped by to give out some of the awards. He was there only a short time but it was pretty neat for him to stop out. We took a CMI group picture with him and I hope to get a copy of that.

Overall a good evening. Another great competition to enter if you are looking for one. It continues to grow and I can't wait to see what they do next year!